Z20let Bad Knock At 5k Rpm

Well.remember that 5K with a load on it (i.e.-driving down the road) versus 5K freewheeling (i.e.-sitting idle) is totally different to the engine. With the load on it, the engine is designed to push against that load, but when freewheeling, there is no push back against anything and parts become quickly disoriented.Next time 'peer' tells you to rev it up, ask them how much money they have in their pocket. And when they ask why, tell them so they can pay you for the damage it's doing to the engine. Don't let morons goad you into blowing something up so they can walk away and laugh. It's not worth it.

This is a subreddit for asking Mechanical questions pertaining to vehicles, engines, etc. If it's got wheels, treads, floats, flies, or has an engine you're good to go.All bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, total loss questions BELONG inWe are experienced mechanics from several fields of expertise including auto, marine, aviation, heavy construction equipment, military, farm, air-cooled, etc.Select one of the options below to filter by 'Solved' or 'Unsolved' posts.

My buddy and I were talking when we both noticed the knocking sound getting progressively louder and louder. At one point, I think the engine lost some power because it kicked into gear and cranked up to about 4500 RPM on level ground (tops out at 5K) and thats when it really started to get bad.

Use the 'All Posts' button to return to the default view.MECHANIC CHAT:Join the for instant conversations with other users. PART TRADING:. If you have parts you would like to trade please do so at our new subredditFlair is available to to users who request it, you must have shown you are an experienced mechanic in some way, shape or form and a contributing poster to this sub.

  • I would imagine most of you guys are more familiar with the Vauxhall or Holden badge, but it's the same car with the same Z20LET Turbo Ecotec engine. Anyways, when driving, the turbo kicks in at 2500 rpm, as usual, but when I reach 3500 rpm, I hear what sounds like the wastegate opening, accompanied by a slight loss in power.
  • The knock feedback learning is -1.75 also for like 1 second for example i am doing a small pull 3rd gear form 3k rpm and do a pull till 5k rpm i look at my AP and on the guage on the bottom left it says -2.80 knock feedback but the actual gauge says 0 is this something to be worried about?

Contributing posters are people who regularly post worthwhile advice. RULES Please Take a Moment To Read The Rules Before Posting1) Advice Format.

We're not super strict here, but for most of our posts we follow a question-response format.1a) Bad Advice. No intentionally bad, harmful, or deceptive advice. Only give advice on something you believe to be true. If we feel a piece of advice is particularly reckless, dangerous, or extremely unhelpful it maybe removed If a post or comment is provided that is not a response to a question, the post may be removed. Please report bad advice to the mod team.2) Courteous and Professional. Keep discussion friendly, civil, courteous, and professional. We're here to help so being rude won't get you very far.

The same goes for assuming that a shop is trying to 'rip you off.' It's okay to ask for a second opinion, openly accusing your mechanic of trying to fleece you is something different.Remember the golden rule: If you have nothing nice to say, don't say anything at all. Those who demonstrate they cannot follow the rules will be warned and posts removed. Those who continually cause issue will be removed2a) One Incident per Thread.

Be sure to post only one vehicle/problem/incident per thread, and only post once. If you didn't get an answer the first time, or you don't like the answer you got that does not mean you post it again.2b) Updates are allowed, provided it is properly marked as an Update or similar.3) Stay On Topic: If it's got wheels, treads, floats, flies, or has an engine it's we'll do our best to help. We're pretty flexible and we even enjoy a bit of humor now and again.3a) Make/Model/Year. All posts must include the make/model/year in the title or body of the post. If that isn't available, provide all you know and explain why. All posts without this information may be subject to being removed.3b) Any off topic posts must be flagged Meta, N/A, or similar.4) Spam/Self-Promotion/Improper Linking/advertisements. Linking to outside content is generally not allowed, unless it's germane to the current discussion.

We allow links, pictures, video, or audio file to help diagnose your problem. Linking for the purposes of promotion (eg offers/coupons/self blog posts/youtube/advertisements/how to) is strictly prohibited and will result in a permanent ban. This is a zero tolerance policy. This isnt a place to post your youtube channel5) Mark Solved. When the problem is 'solved' please click the button under your post marked 'Is this solved? Click here' and select the option for Solved and save.

This will allow people to filter out posts that have already been resolved so they can move on to other posts that still need assistance.6) Personal Information. Sharing personal information, or specifics on is not allowed. If you are making a Second Opinion post, then please do not name the shops specifically.

The post will be deleted, this is not a review forum for specific shops.7) Body Work. Is a sub for mechanical questions. Body work questions regarding paint, dents, dings or accident related damages or other bodywork related issues should be posted in If you want an estimate you should take the car to a qualified body shop as they would know best what it will cost in your area and how to fix the damages. If you have insurance questions please ask in RIP-OFFS, SCAMS, & SECOND OPINIONSIt is not against the rules if you are asking about a second opinion on a quote/repair from a shop. However, please observe rule #1 when asking for a second opinion. It is considered rude to ask, “Is the shop trying to fleece/rip me off?” You wouldn’t ask “Why are all cops pigs?” on, ask about Creationism on, or talk about vaccines causing autism on.Generally there is a good reason why a repair costs what it does. We are more than happy to help you figure out why a shop wants to charge you for a repair, and we will tell you if it is unusually high.

Z20let Bad Knock At 5k Rpm 1

We are also happy to advise on how you can save money at the shop. Please read the on the subject for details. IMPORTANTUnderstand that the assistance you receive is ADVICE ONLY and is given with the understanding that the giver assumes no liability for any damages that occur as a direct or indirect result. It is impossible for a mechanic to diagnose your problem accurately without seeing/hearing the problem with his own senses. Any advice you receive you must use AT YOUR OWN RISK. OUR PARTNER SUBREDDITS:.

Hello.After a long trip in Germany this summer, i got in a debate with my friends about how its really 'bad' to drive so fast that you keep your car at a high RPM for a long time, or that you run your RPMS high when accelerating.Everyone seems to 'complain' that you allways should keep your RPMs as low as possible (shift early), and never drive so fast that you go past 3000 RPM with a TDI engine that has a rev-limit at about 5000.Is this true? Does high RPMs tear / wear out your engine a lot quicker, or is it acceptable to lets say, drive 200 KM/h at 4000 RPM for 2-3 hours straight?

(TDI engine, RPM-limit at 5000).I've allways been under the impression that engines are usually tested and designed to be able to handle high RPMs just as fine as low RPMs, as long as you take good care of the engine. (Change oil+ filter, air-intake filters, etc.). Naturally, high RPMS require more lubrication, cooling and such, but is it really that 'damaging' to let the engine really hit high RPM-numbers for long times as long as you keep your cars lubricants, fluids and filters in check? I know that especially turbo'd cars are oil-sensitive, as the turbo require really good cooling, but is it damaging in the 'long term' to let an engine run at high RPMs?As you probably have noticed, im no way a mechanic, and i know that someone here knows a good answer to this.Thank you, and pardon my english, non-native writer.

Knock

This is probably the best answer I've seen in this thread.Manufacturers design the engines to run in a range of acceptable speed for performance. Higher RPM within a certain range isn't terrible for the engine, but it will increase wear on parts and fluids.This is why I tell people who regularly drive fast and use their full range of engine speed to change their fluids more frequently. Oil doesn't magically break down at a specific mile marker, it gets worn out by use.

Same goes for coolant, constant heating and cooling break it down and turn it acidic, making it lose it's properties. Imo the heat isn't the biggest issue - wear on the valvetrain increases exponentially with speed, conrods flex more. Lotsa things happen at high rpms.Lugging's bad too though. So there's that. When it comes down to it engines are either designed to run forever with low power output in which case they probably don't rev high enough to be asking much of the materials.

Doesn't really matter how you use it.For high strung engines you're damned either way. It's going to need a rebuild eventually regardless of how you treat it. Bouncing off the rev limiter is going to hasten its demise of course but they just won't go forever. Everyone seems to 'complain' that you allways should keep your RPMs as low as possible (shift early), and never drive so fast that you go past 3000 RPM with a TDI engine that has a rev-limit at about 5000.This isn't necessarily true. When you are at low rpms you must use more throttle to achieve the same acceleration. This increases the LOAD on your engine and internal components. Kinda like starting in a high gear on a bicycle, you might be pedaling slower, theoretically saving your knee joints, but you are pedaling harder.

Which is worse for your knees?You need to balance your rpms, load etc. Don't worry about revving up to 4k rpm, but there is no need to make it a habit. There is no need to accelerate slow either, your car is actually more efficient if you accelerate moderately.fyi, my 4 cylinder cruises at well over 3000 rpm at 70 mph, and I regularly drove on the highway at 80 mph (closer to 3500 rpm iirc). Short answer, yes. The more RPM's your turning the more movement your engine and it's internals are enduring. One hour at 4000 RPM twice as much movement as one hour at 2000 RPM.

Like saying driving an hour at 70MPH as opposed to an hour at 35MPH. Your tires traveled twice as far and therefor will have twice the wear. High RPM get much worse nearing max RPM. Max RPM is the limit that the engine can take before severe damage. Running at or near max RPM for extended periods will drastically reduce engine life.

Engines are usually more efficient at lower RPM as well. So early shifting etc will increase your gas milage. I have to disagree (in part) with that; your example of 'twice the speed- twice the wear' is a little faulty.

Z20let Bad Knock At 5k Rpm 2017

Per this thinking, driving one hour at 70mph and two hours at 35 would cause the same amount of wear (assuming the engine is in good shape and the rpm's are effectively doubled), but that is not true, because the forces in an engine are not always linear; they're exponential.Attach an object with a string around a stick so that the object can rotate around it and spin it at speed A, then double the speed; the force needed quadrupled. This is wrong.The load (when traveling at a constant speed) on the engine depends on the load on the car. Traveling at 5k rpm at 100 mph is MUCH harder on your car than traveling at 5k rpm at 50 mph. That is because you have to overcome air resistance, and that is a squared function. This means the air resistance acting on your car at 100mph is 4 times greater than at 50 mph.Edit: This doesn't necessarily mean that the wear on the engine would be 4 times greater, simply that the engine is working harder.

Comments are closed.